Feasting on Alabama’s 13-year cicadas: A delicacy worth waiting for

Sometimes, a unique culinary experience calls for a second indulgence.

One of the most anticipated natural events in Alabama is the rare occurrence of the 13-year cicadas. I had the pleasure of witnessing and hearing them back in 2011, and if we can maintain the health of our environment, we can look forward to their return in 2037.

As May progresses, the 2024 experience becomes increasingly intense as a growing number of cicadas emerge. Initially, the sound was merely intriguing, but it soon became eerie and otherworldly. Now, the constant whirr and buzz of the cicadas has become a ubiquitous presence, akin to the wheels of life that keep the world in motion.

The box elders crawling with cicadas are being divebombed by birds. Abundant signs left by coyotes and racoons indicate that they consider these insects a delicacy. Even the field mice appear to be a bit plumper than usual.

With everything around me, I was determined to fully immerse myself in this once-in-13-year feast.

Two of the South’s leading invertebrate researchers, Kendra and John Abbott, played a crucial role in assisting me. John, who is the chief curator of the University of Alabama Museums, is a renowned authority on dragonflies with international recognition. Kendra, on the other hand, is a Blount Scholar at the University of Alabama. Their combined expertise and exceptional photography skills culminated in the creation of a remarkable book, the Princeton Field Guide to the Insects of North America.

We recognized the need for more information about the samples we were collecting. Surprisingly, there has been limited research on the periodic cicadas in Alabama. The documentation for the different types of cicadas that emerge with this brood in the state is lacking, and the existing maps of cicada occurrences are incomplete, with only one confirmed species. As a result, John had valid concerns about my initial observations of hearing multiple distinct periodic cicada sounds and seeing various cicada forms.

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During our visit to the Paint Rock Forest Research Center in northeast Alabama, we realized that Alabama serves as the epicenter for the 13-year locusts. Despite the oversight of most maps in acknowledging the presence of periodic cicadas in the area, John and Kendra swiftly uncovered the fact that the Paint Rock valley is teeming with three unique cicada species.

The Mellow Yellows, also known as the large orange-bellied cicadas, emit a low, hollow whirring sound. They are likely to be the Magicicada tridecim species according to science. These cicadas live up to their name as they tend to be slow-moving and quiet when handled.

The black-bellied Black Barts, possibly M. tredecassini, were the tiniest among them, yet they were the most skittish. When you caught them, they displayed a pugnacious nature, emitting their high-pitched zapping sounds in a continuous protest.

The third and perhaps the least common species is known as Ginger Bakers (M. tredecula?). These unique creatures have gold striping on their mostly black bellies and are known for producing a peculiar drumming sound with jazzy, off-beat rhythms.

The sight of millions (billions!) of these cicadas emerging every 13 years has surely captivated and intrigued Americans for centuries. It comes as no surprise that cicadas have gained a reputation as a highly coveted delicacy, a longstanding culinary tradition in Alabama that predates the convenience of modern grocery stores.

Kendra, the skilled magicicada chef, took charge of marinating the wings. As my wife and I gathered sides of freshly-picked goosefoot greens and sugar snaps, Kendra worked her magic by creating a flavorful marinade using onions, peppers, garlic, and a selection of aromatic spices. Once the wings were prepared, she expertly cooked the Black Barts, Ginger Bakers, and Mellow Yellows in a hot iron skillet with a touch of oil.

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I now understand the reason behind the birds’ melodic tunes. The surroundings are filled with a lush green backdrop that resembles asparagus or spinach. The taste is reminiscent of savory mushrooms, with a subtle hint of sweetness. The texture is crisp on the outside, while the inside is moist and akin to a hard-boiled egg. Kendra and I decided that we might incorporate a dash of balsamic vinegar into the batch we make in 2037.

After consuming the protein and minerals, I feel energized and revitalized. The abundance of evidence suggests that insects, such as cicadas, were once a significant component of the human diet, providing a rich source of protein and other essential nutrients. In fact, the nutritional value offered by insects surpasses that of traditional sources like beef and chicken.

Bottling and commercializing a resource that emerges only once every 13 years is certainly no easy task. However, the point here is not about the feasibility of such an endeavor. Instead, it serves as a reminder of the abundant native resources that Alabama possesses, resources that often go unnoticed. These resources have the potential to greatly impact our lives if only we take the time to truly appreciate and comprehend their value.

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MBS Staff

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